Then I actually dined there and realized how completely fantastic it is.

EMC takes its oceanic title seriously. The seafood is top-notch and the menu leaves nothing to be desired in that area. Sushi is as dynamic and delicious as the carpaccio; grilled fish is perfectly prepared; and all of the Asian influences are executed with authority and precision.

Service, too, is swift and exceptional, especially for a 3,000-square-foot, heavily trafficked chain restaurant that’s been open only three months. My only complaint was the delayed delivery of a cocktail, but who really cares when you’re eating food this good?

Start with Hamachi Onion ($15) carpaccio, impossibly tender tiles of yellowtail drizzled with olive oil, scallions and just enough serrano chile to wake up your palate. From there, dive into the Santana Roll ($21), a roll of crab meat and avocado topped with pillow-y baked lobster, langostino, chives and spicy mayo. If crunch is what you crave, the Spicy Tuna Crispy Rice ($15) is pretty fun.